Fujifilm XF10-24 mm F4 R Optical Image Stabiliser Lens

Product Information

The Fujifilm 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR offers a good blend between controlling the flare and intentionally bringing the effect into an image. Shooting into the sun easily creates a soft starburst. From some angles, you’ll also get that dot flare look. But, adjusting the lens’s position lightly was enough to eliminate almost everything but the starburst over the sun. The flare is easy enough to manipulate to intentionally get that effect or adjust to achieve a more technically correct image.

If you get out the microscope, there are none from 10-18mm, and only the slightest hint of yellow-blue fringes in the corners at 24mm. While I love the lens, it’s got a few technical imperfections. The edges are quite soft. At the widest and farthest focal lengths, the lens needs to step the aperture down quite a bit if you want to fight that softness, while the middle focal lengths perform a bit better. Of course, once you lose a bit of technical precision, you gain some character — just be sure you love the look of the corners before making that investment. The continuous f4 is good, but a wider aperture would be more innovative. While not as common for the widest angles, I wouldn’t mind seeing more wide angle, wider aperture options like the DSLR-mount Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 Art. If you predict you will be shooting on the wider end mostly and value the compact nature of the XF 14mm f/2.8 R this may be a sound alternative. In the two sample images below you may see that the overall image quality is very similar with only a slight edge to the XF 14mm f/2.8 R. Watch out for distortion from converging verticals, try and keep the camera level in both axis. Sometimes this is not possible so my workaround is to shoot slightly wider then correct the convergence in post processing. Image stabilizers are important for long lenses, but don't do much for ultrawides since camera shake isn't as much of a problem.For less money, the Canon 72mm UV and B+W MRC 010 are excellent filters, as is the B+W 72mm 010 and the basic multicoated Hoya filters, but the Hoya HD3 is the toughest and the best. Also note that my tripod did not move between images. Only my lens changed or, in some cases, the whole camera was swapped out, but realigned to the markings on my support system. XF 16mm F1.4 WR

All three samples I used in the past, including my copy, were made in Japan. X-T2 + XF10-24mmF4 R OIS @ 24mm, ISO 800, 1/340, f/11.0At f/4 there’s a minimal amount of softness evident but it doesn’t jump out nor does it appear as distortion – this is true in both the 10mm and 24mm focus distances. At f/8 you have a complete edge to edge sharpness.

Fujifilm has improved an already popular lens and now it has a fixed aperture ring with markings and they have weatherproofed the lens as well. Above left: Fuji XF 10-24mm at 10mm (15mm equiv), above right: Fuji XF 10-24mm at 24mm (36mm equiv) The Fujifilm XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR has an iris diaphragm with 7 rounded blades, which has resulted in fairly appealing bokeh for what is after all an ultra-wide-angle lens.I see no spherochromatism (called color bokeh by hobbyists). This means that out-of-focus highlights remain neutral and don't take on any slight color fringes. In addition, it provides up to a whopping 6.5 stops of compensation when used with a camera that also has in-body stabilization, like the Fuji X-T4 that we tested the lens with. I do find it strange that a lens that’s great for shooting in the outdoors is not fully weather-sealed – perhaps in late 2013, Fuji hadn’t perfected that tech yet. From 14mm to 24mm, it's always super sharp throughout most of the image. The farthest corners can be a little softer at f/4, and they're all super-sharp by f/5.6.

While the all-metal body is not weather-sealed, the rear element is covered with a glass panel to prevent dust from entering the lens – it doesn’t replace weather sealing but is a nice addition.Which lens would you get for general purpose landscape travel? Would it depend on what body you have? eg. x-h1 vs x-t3. Debating which of the two to carry and thinking that the 10-24 might require another lens to complement it such as 35/50/55-200. But what if you could only carry one lens as a do-it-all solution?